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Cops on Top


Memorial Expeditions Honoring Fallen Law Enforcement Officers
Cops on Top is a team of volunteers from the law enforcement and public service community, who undertake mountain climbing expeditions to honor the memories of those heroes who have lost their lives in the line of duty protecting others. We welcome you to our home.

2009 Aconcagua Expedition

Climbing for Steve: Aconcagua Trip Report

Very few times in ones life do we get to participate in something thats purpose and goal is far greater than oneself. To be able to exert energy and thought that is unmatched by anything that you have ever done. The 2009 Cops on Top Aconcagua memorial expedition was one of these times, when finished, we were able to look back on it and be proud that you were a part of it. Proud that we were able to carry on the memory and honor the sacrifice of someone that was taken from us too soon in such a tragic way. 

Being the expedition leader, there were many things that went into planning such a huge expedition. Always concerned and conscious of the fact that Sergeant Liczbinski was who and why we were conducting this tribute, and to be honest, I didn't want to in any way slip up and dishonor him, his family, the Philadelphia Police Department, or Cops on Top. As with any great and established organization, there are always people (members) generous enough to share experiences and give great advice. Keith McPheeters, Stu Frink, and Chris Singleton were always there to help out, give information on the route, and over all support while I was planning the trip. Being established members of Cops on Top, they if anyone, knew the tremendous task that was at hand and the importance of a successful and most importantly safe expedition.

Below is a quick blog/story of my personal experience and thoughts of the expedition. I was able to keep a written journal during the trip that I used to record the trip in hopes of being able to share it with readers when I returned home.

None of the team members really knew each other. Of course, most of us became familiar through numerous phone conversations and emails, so when everyone arrived in Dallas, Texas, it was kind awkward but seemed like a reunion at the same time. Everyone seemd to hit it off right away and team chemistry seemed right. Obviously, this made me feel somewhat relieved given the fact I picked the team and it was paramount that team dynamics and chemistry fit for this type of lengthy expedition. After waiting a long 7 hours in Chile, we finally boarded our plane and landed in Mendoza, Argentina around 6:00 pm on January 13th. I do have to confess the flight from Chile to Argentina was a bit bumpy and almost made me vomit. It was one of the bumpiest flights that I have ever taken. Soon after arriving and clearing customs which basically consisted of someone looking at your travel bags and waving you on, our travel service (Aconcagua Trek) soon arrived and transported us to the Gran Hotel Mendoza, where after a good nights rest, we awoke to get our permits.

Getting our permits was kind interesting and needless to say kind of a run around. Information about obtaining permits was a little vague, so we just winged it. We left for the permit office at 8:00 am and after about two hours of running from place to place, we were finally issued our permits.

 We were now ready to go!

All of the running around made us late, so we had to call the transportation company and ask they pick us up a couple hours later. We still needed to get a few more supplies before we left the city.

We were then picked up by our transportation company and told that we were being taken to the mule service (Rudy Parra) to sort our gear and prepare it for the mules. We had all hoped that we were being taken to Hotel Ayelen to break down our luggage, sort our gear, and repackage food before the mules. Oh well, we are all first responders so added pressure is nothing....right?!? After a 3 hour drive from Mendoza to Los Puquios (where the mule service was) we arrived and after about an hour finally sorted out our gear and prepared it for the mules (30 kg is all you could pack in one bag).

After our mule liaison, Manuel, assured that we had all made weight and were all set to go, he transported us to Hotel Ayelen. Arrangements were then made to be picked up and transported to the trail head at 9:30 am.

The rest of the day was spent preparing for the climb in the morning and eating at a near by resturant.

January 15th was filled with a lot of talking and getting to really know each other. The temperature hovered around 80-85 degrees most of the day and with little drinkable water it made things a little difficult. Each of us tried to carry between 4-6 liters of water at all times because you never knew when you were going to have the opportunity to stop and filter water that was not complete mud. The long and dusty trail followed the river towards Las Lenas Shelter where after about 6 hours of HOT and tiring hiking we finally arrived.

To be honest, the camp was a little primitive and mule "dung" was all over the place. But when you are miles away from civilization and in the middle of the Andes, beggars can't be choosers.

After setting up camp, getting plenty of water, and cooking something to eat, we all retired for the evening early and got plenty of rest for the lengthy journey ahead of us.

January 16th very much resembled Day 1 in the fact that it was still hot and very dry. Today the terrain seemed more level, but did have its share of ups and downs with some small stream crossings thrown in. A couple hours after we started, our mules passed us with our gear on their way to Casa de Piedra. The mules seemed well adapted for the terrain and they glided over rocks that we were struggling not to fall on. Today the hike was about the same in length and time so it once again gave the team time to talk and further the bonding process. As we neared the Casa de Piedra camp, the mountains opened and we were able to get our first look at Cerro Aconcagua. I was slightly ahead of the group and clearly remember stopping to take several pictures and say a quick prayer after seeing how massive the mountain was (and how far we still had to go). I could not help but wonder what Sgt Liczbinski would think of the four of us standing there, looking at the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, preparing to climb it for him.

On January 17th after waking around 6:30 am, we met with a muleteer who assisted us across the river. Although we were able to cross it on the way back on foot, it was still kind of cool hopping on the back of a mule and catching a ride. Soon after leaving the mules, we all used gathered water for the day in a near by glacial stream and grabbed a quick snack.

As we hiked towards Base Camp (Plaza Argentina), we saw our largest elevations gains so far on the trip. After a 3,000 foot hike to base camp we settled in and waited for the pending snow storm that would continue to plague us until we returned to base camp on January 26th.

Overall, all of the trails were well established. One thing that really impressed me about the park was the fact there was no trash lying around. Which either can be accedited to a well maintained park or environemtally concious hikers.

On January 18th we awoke to find the land covered in snow, we quickly dressed, had breakfast, and started our way up to Camp 1. This was a cache day, so we carried all of our high gear and things we would not need at Base Camp up the mountain. On our way to Camp 1, we passed over glaciers and around large fields of Penitentes.

After negotiating a huge Penitentes field we finally arrived at Camp 1 very tired but proud. It was understood by each climber that we were on the mountain for Sgt. Liczbinski and every step we took towards the summit was for him.

This was another large day of elevation gain and everyone could feel the effects of altitude to some degree.

The team returned to Base Camp tired and hungry.

January 19th was a planned rest day at Base Camp. To be honest, rest days (for me) were kind of boring. Just sitting around is not my style, so many of us visited the Base Camp tent owned by Daniel Lopez Expeditions. There we would sit around and read climbing journals and talk with other climbers from around the world and explain what Cops on Top is. Daniel Lopez was a very kind man who employes GREAT cooks inside the tent. Lopez has a great memory and explained that he remembered the 2004 Cops on Top team and how nice everyone was. Way to go guys!

We then thought it fit to give Lopez a small summit banner that we brought along (which now hangs inside his tent for everyone who passes through to see). Rudy Parra was also given one to hang inside his mule transportation building.

Rest day was just that...restful.

On January 20th we left Plaza Argentina around 10:00 am and made a climb back to Camp 1 where we established camp. Needless to say, the snow and wind never let up. We secured our tents very well to prevent them from blowing away or ripping to shreds. A couple of us had slight head aches so we sat around and drank water like there was no tomorrow and took Tylenol to get rid of the head aches. At 16,000 feet (+) the team could really feel the effects of the altitude. The restroom facilities consisted of your "poo bag" that was issued to you at Base Camp by the park rangers and a large rock that could be found only a few meters away from the main camp. Unfortunately, many people ignored the usage of their poo bags and left presents for other climbers. The thing is, at 16,000 feet, things don't break down and sit for a VERY long time. After reaching camp, the rest of the day was spent eating, drinking fluids, and resting as we planned on carrying a cache to Camp 2 the next day.

On January 21st I wrote in my journal, "Today involved a lot of pain". Adam was experiencing some altitude issues and elected to remain at Camp 1 while the rest of the team carried a cache to Camp 2. It was a very cold day and involved anther large gain in altitude. I can remeber the long lines of guided climbers slowly walking up the mountain and holding most of us up. Never the less, we managed to get around them and struggled our way up the mountain fighting the wind and being pelted in the face by crystals of ice and snow. Steve had a very bad head ache and I a slight one, however we kept going. All of us knew how important it was to get a load to Camp 2 despite little inconveniences..

We finally reached camp and the weather was turning bad very fast. The wind was very strong and the snow was really starting to fall at this point. We struggled to find a suitable campsite and were able to stash our gear and supplies in the snow near a large pile of rocks. Although I felt strong, at an altitude of 19,500 feet, things kind of ran in slow motion (at least for me). To be up that high (the highest I had ever been) it was absolutely beautiful despite the conditions. I really could not see anything given the poor visibility created by falling and blowing snow, but just knowing the team had reach our high camp despite adversity was gratifying. I remember looking at the mountain (at least where it would have been seen if there was no snow) and reflecting on our mission. We soon returned to Camp 1 to find ourselves enveloped in another snow storm and bitterly cold temperatures.

January 22nd was a rest and acclimatization day at Camp 1, I was able to get up at 8:00 am and call my family on the satelite phone. Today Adam was feeling better so he felt like he might be able to climb to high camp tomorrow. As I sat on a rock near my tent, I watched team after team walk by as the weather continued to stay about the same (snow). We had picked up about 4-5 inches of new snow that night so things were a little wet around camp. I can clearly remember a French team walk by. We had hiked up the mountain with them from Las Lenas. We later learned while in Base Camp that one of the French team members became lost on the mountain. The night he was lost, the temps fell to -39 degrees and the wind was ferocious. We never learned if he was found or not, but can remember the search helicopter circling the mountain for a couple of days after.

To get out of the cold wind, snow, and harmful rays of the sun, I crept inside my tent and remember taking the inside temp. It was 91 degrees inside the tent due to the extreme sunlight that was beaming down on us. I thought it was strange that it could be cold and snowing outside and 91 degrees inside the tent at the same time.

Most of us either sat in our tents or someplace sheltered from the wind most of the day. As the snow continued to pile up on rock ledges and mountains around us, we could see several avalanches take place. To far away to be harmed by them, we all started to take pictures. As cloud cover increased, night time came fast as the clouds blocked out the sun. So, we all retired early to get some sleep for the long day ahead.

I remember lying in my sleeping bag thinking about the route and if the False Polish Route would even be suitable to climb on given all of the snow that had fallen recently. I knew that at least 6-10 inches had fallen near high camp and it would present a challenge even to the most seasoned climber.

At altitude, many people have weird dreams. Every member of the team reported experiencing strange dreams. I can vividly recall one dream that I had. I was magically teleported to a strange land where I was transformed into a Rhinoserous. Not sure what that meant!?!

On January 23rd we pushed to Camp 2. Adam was feeling better and it was agreed to let him continue on the climb. The day was very long and tiring. Each of us was carrying moderately heavy loads and the weather conditions, altitude, and lack of rear sleep was starting to weigh on all of us. Although most of our bodies were physically strong, just the hardships that we had faced up to that point were starting to ware us down. Soon after reaching Camp 2 I called the website and left a blog (I am sure that you could hear the wind). Visibility was about 50 yards and the snow storm we walked up in was increasing in strength. Temperatures were also starting to fall rapidly so the team quickly melted snow for water and grabbed something to eat. Adam started to feel really bad from the large change in altitude and retired to his sleeping bag for the night. His illness was a major concern of mine and the rest of the team so I awoke up every 30 minutes to check on him and have him drink some fluids. The wind continued to howl all night and the snow continued to fall.

Reaching an elevation of over 19,000 feet was a major accomplishment and I remember how proud I was of Adam for reaching that elevation despite how miserable he felt. His dedication to the expedition and what it stood for was his motivation. Adam awoke the next day feeling much better but very tired.

January 24th was another rest day for the team. I spent most of the day resting inside the tent and catching small naps to recover from the night before. Getting up so much throughout the night wore me out. With all of the rest that I was getting, I neglected to drink the water that I needed and eat properly to build up my strength for the next day (summit day).

That night, the temperature fell to the lowest we had had while on the mountain. My North Face Dark Star -40 bag was not enough. I remember lying in my bag shivering. I rmember unzipping the tent and looking outside once. Despite no clouds in the sky, the hurricane force winds pounded the landscape and our tents. The tents shook so much at one point I remember praying they would hold together. I have heard of winds being so stromg on Aconcagua that tents had been ripped apart leaving climbers completely exposed to the elements. Thank God they held.

As day broke, I could now get a clear picture of the obstacle (snow) that we would face on the False Polish Route. In my journal I wrote, "Conditions on the mountain are not good. With no clouds, you can see everything. One group just tested the snow and found themselves post holing all over the place. I hope all of the snow melts or freezes!" The group that tested the snow told us we were crazy for planning to attempt the False Polish Route and they were going back to Mendoza to get warm and then back to England.

Boiling water was a priority today. I remember staring my stop watch and determining that it took over 1 1/2 hours to boil 7 liters of water. The snow was very dry and light and with the cold temps and altitude, it took forever to get enough water boiled.

At around 5:30 pm, Adam and I had a conversation. He stated that he would not be making the summit push tomorrow. We discussed how ill he had been getting after large altitude gains and we both felt it was the smartest thing for him. I could see the disappointment in his eyes, but I reassured him he had done his best and I was confident the Liczbinski family and the Philadelphia Police Department appreciated every step he took on the mountain in honor of Sgt. Liczbinski.

"If a man does his best what else is there"  -George Patton

January 25th was summit day and we had planned on waking and going for the summit around 6:00 am, but given the extremely low temperatures and wind we chose to wait another hour for the sun to come up to warm things up a bit. At 7:00 am, we set out across the False Polish Route which traverses the mountain under the Polish Glacier. Dressed in our down, mitts, and balaclavas, we busted our way through the deep (knee deep) snow for 6 hours. I can clearly remember the wind and how strong it was. You could hear it coming up the side of the mountain straight for you...it sounded like a freight train barreling directly at you. As it came closer, we would all have to crouch down and brace ourselves and be hit by it. After it passed, we could continue.

The cold was a major factor. However, we all knew from the reports that we had gotten this was the only day (our window) to attempt a summit. As the cold temperatures started to slowly freeze our feet, we once stopped at 20,210 feet and climbed into our sleeping bags to warm ourselves (and feet). If we would not have done this, we would have most certainly lost some toes. I had made a promise to my good friend Chuck that I would come back with everything I left with...so warming my toes was a necessity. After warming our feet for about 30 minutes, we slid on our crampons (that were usless before then due to the loose snow) and climbed our way further up and rounding the corner and joining with the Normal Route. After about an hour later, Carmen and I spoke and she had decided to stop close to 20, 500 feet (according to my altimetert). I was very proud of her for getting as far as she did. If I am not mistaken, that was a personal best for her.

After Carmen turned around, Steve and I sat near some large rocks and rested briefly. At this point other climbers had started to descend the mountain and gave reports of cold winds, snow, and a summit time (from where we were) as being 5 hours or more. It was already 1:00 pm so time had started to become a factor that was weighing on my mind. I had a sinking feeling in the back of my mind that I was not going be able to make the summit. However, Steve and I continued to push further up the mountain and again stopped near Independencia Hut (a shelter placed on the mountain that stranded climbers can get into). As we climbed a few hundred feet up and past the hut and started out way towards the infamous Canaletta, the wind again hit me like a freight train. I could not believe how cold it was and how strong the wind had gotten. By this point I had started to grow ever tired and time was definitely not on my side (it was now about 2:30 pm). I had met with Steve and told him that I would not be able to continue the climb. I knew that given my current level of strength that I would probably be able to reach the summit, but not getting back down to Camp 2 before dark and the idea of freezing to death was not something I was willing to entertain. Since there were many other climbers on the mountain, camps lower down, and Steve's amazing strength we both agreed to allow him to continue towards the summit.

As I stopped and Steve continued, I remember thinking how disappointed I was in myself and what others would think of me. Sure, I had reached a personal best altitude of approximately 21, 700 feet (according to my altimeter) but it wasn't the summit. I was saddened that I would not be able to share the summit with a good friend, Steve Janke. I would not be able to hold the metal memorial plaque, steady the Cops on Top summit banner in the blowing Aconcagua wind, or make a summit call to my good friend Keith McPheeters or to the website. I managed to glissade down to the hut wind my way back down the Normal Route, walk past several high camps, down and around the long traverse following the False Polish Route and to Camp 2. As I staggered from near exhaustion into Camp 2, I was greeted by Carmen and Adam with hugs and warm soup. I remember Adam coming up to me and saying that he was proud of me. That meant a lot given the self disappointment I put myself through and torment as I walked the 2 1/2 hours back to camp. You know, 2 1/2 hours alone is a long time to beat yourself up and second guess yourself for turning around.

As we all waited on Steve we were excited to learn from some British climbers they had spoken with Steve and he had went for the summit. I knew Steve's determination for reaching the summit and what this expedition meant to him. At 8:30 pm, Steve staggered back into camp cold and a little tired. I greeted him with a large hug and said how proud I was of him. Pushing yourself as hard as Steve did was deserving of such an embrace. Steve later described his last steps (alone). Steve reached the summit by himself...no other climbers were on the mountain at that time. Surrounded by clouds and heaven he had time to reflect on the life, memory, and sacrifice of Sgt. Liczbinski.

I could see in Steve's eyes and by the tone of his voice he was gratful to have made it safely to the summit and down in honor of Sgt. Liczbinski. I can remember Steve later saying, WE made it to the summit. WE did it! I later made a call on the satelite phone to the website announcing to the WORLD that Cops on Top had reached the summit of Aconcagua.

He was right, the team set out 13 days ago to climb a mountain on behalf of Sergeant Liczbinski and despite terrible conditions and visible reminders of other teams misfortune on the mountain, was able to place a team member on the summit, compete the mission, and carry on the tradition of Cops on Top.

That night we all got much needed rest. The winds really never let up and the cold kept coming.

The morning of January 26th we gathered up our gear and made our way back to Base Camp. It was a very long day, but well worth it given the weather that moved into high camp. From Base Camp you could see the snow and ice blowing from the summit. Some of the spindrift from the summit appeared to be reaching altitudes of 1,000 feet high. That night was when the French climber became lost.

Given our late arrival into Base Camp, we had to wait another day before our mules could arrive to get our gear. So, we spent the evening eating inside Daniel Lopez's tents and speaking to other climbers about the route and our trip. It was amazing to see all of the climbers that were retreating off the mountain from the weather. We were treuly blessed to have been given one day to make the summit. Although I find myself second guessing the decision I made not to establish a higher camp (which would have place us even closer to the summit) it probably would not have worked out the way that it did leaving us without a successful summit. It was unfortunate the weather ran us off the summit. I admit I prayed several times for the weather to clear so Carmen and I coudl have made a second attempt, but that's the way it goes.

The satellite phone only allowed me to make a brief call to my wife, who told me that many people back home were aware of the weather conditions and were worried about us. I told her to let everyone know we were safe at Base Camp and not to worry.

On January 28th, we made our way back down the mountain and to Las Lenas Shelter. Although I was happy we were ever closer to home by being at the camp, I was saddened that we were leaving Aconcagua. The mountain had not really been that good to us, but there was something about it that I knew I would miss. Aconcagua and the park is a magical and beautiful place with a lot of history. Many climbers (some very famous) had walked in the same steps that we had, seen the same things we had, but other than some of my good friends on the 2004 expedition none of them could share the same experience as us That was special.

As we made our way out of the park and back to the trail head we all paused at the park sign and reflected on the opportunity that Cops on Top had given us. We eventually made our way back to Hotel Aylene ad spent the night and that morning left for Mendoza, Argentina where we were forced to listen to 70's and 80's music the whole ride back. After arriving in Mendoza, we visited the Mendoza Police Department and gave some gifts to them as a token of generosity. The language barrier was very hard to overcome, but overall I personally feel they were gratful we visited and brought with us several Cops on Top things.

Overall, the expedition was a success it's my hope that we were able to honor Sergeant Stephen Liczbinski in a respectful way throughout the expedition. It was a tough journey and we all learned a lot about ourselves and each other, but through it all we became friends bonded by the realization of the dangers of our jobs and how fragile life is and how quickly it can be taken. I take some comfort in knowing there is an organization, whose members have dedicated themselves to never forgetting those who have paid the ultimate sacrifice protecting all of us.

I personally want to thank all of those who supported the 2009 Cops on Top Aconcagua memorial expedition, the Liczbinski family, the Philadelphia Police Department, Keith McPheeters, Stu Frink, Chris Singleton, Chuck Porter, my wife, Cops on Top, and all of those who said prayers for us while climbing.

Until next time......be safe.

 

Lt Troy Bacon, Frankfort IN Police Department

Published Feb 15 2009, 03:08 AM by TroyBacon
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About TroyBacon

I am a Lieutenant with the Frankfort Police Department in Indiana and will serve as the 2012 Aconcagua expedition team leader. I have lead two successful major Cops on Top memorial expedition, which include Aconcagua in 2009 and Denali 2010 and have also reached the summits of Rainier, Whitney, Granite Peak, several Colorado 14ers, and over half of the Southern Sixers (as recognized by the Carolina Mountain Club). I have been an active member of Cops on Top since 2005 and currently sits on the Cops on Top Board of Directors.
Listed below are the state highpoints that I have reached:

A photo of Steve Janke and I holding the Trooper Michael Haynes memorial plaque on the summit of Denali (20,320 ft).
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